Thursday, October 30, 2008

Orphaned Organs

I don't know what it is inside of me, but just as I try to follow my intuition, that silent urging in situations, there come those times when I feel pushed to move – to go – to see something different. You can call it stir craziness, cabin fever, itchy feet – whatever you name it, it has been a driving force in my life, always leading me to places I've never expected to see. Yesterday the walls were closing in on me. The thought of being here in my house made me feel very tired and my heart race with anxiety at the same moment. Knowing the only thing to do was leave, I threw some odds and ends in a bag and got a taxi out of town. I remember an episode of The X-Files, one where a government-built subterranean antenna broadcasting ultra low frequency waves was causing peoples heads to pop like water balloons. It was actually due to a build-up of pressure behind the ear drums, and Scully and Mulder found that if they traveled west at a quick clip, the pressure would abate for a bit. Yesterday I felt my own bit of pressure here in Lome. Not as if the Togolese government can afford a head-popping secret antenna – there's only enough money in the official coffers here for a crippled infrastructure and the occasional presidential palace. No, I simply mean that as the wind rushed over my face and the landscape faded from sand and concrete to lush rolling hills, I felt the weight of my sedation peeling back and flying off like so many old layers of chipped paint.

I descended back upon Agou-Akoumawou to visit with the stage family and to eventually make my way to Cafe Kuma, a small coffee plantation nestled at the top of one of the mountains circling Kpalime. I needed to find Kujo, the proprietor, whose number went missing with my phone all those weeks ago. True, there were easier ways to find his number, many of which didn't involve leaving my couch, but it was nice to have an over-arching purpose for my impromptu vagabonding. I was at peace last night, relaxing with my surrogate parents and walking the familiar stretch of highway that forms the town. I met with the new stageres this morning and doled out some American sweets I've had stashed – they were all in high spirits, but looked as if their appendages had had a nasty run in with some sort of pox – the heralded akoumawou-tech-house-bugs strike again. Still – an upbeat crowd -

After coming back from the mountain today, Maman had a lunch prepared for me – pate with gbomadetsi (spicy spinach sauce), my favorite – this was interesting, however – now being here has facilitated in my losing any inhibitions I still had about food – granted, there wasn't much I wouldn't eat back in the states (man, you should have seen me at Bray's Island, my last restaurant) – but now be it bones, marrow, skin, fat, organs – bring it on. Hearts? Meaty. Lungs? Spongy. Intestines? If you blur your vision and imagine they are some type of expensive, exotic truffle, they taste just exactly like – you guessed it - intestines. Yum.

Yet today, I ran across a surprise in my gboma – a stray kidney bean. Odd, I thought – Why is there only one bean here? When I remembered there are no kidney beans in Togo, it made much more sense – ah, just a stray kidney. Fine, no problem, I could use the protein. Knowing they come in pairs just added to the excitement – I knew there was one still hiding out. Like finding two temporary tattoos in a box of cracker jacks.

Dear diary – jackpot.

Finding the 3rd kidney a few minutes later was only mildly disconcerting - I was hungry, you see. Truly bothersome, though, wasn't that there were more than one set of kidneys, nor that they were the only bit of meat in my otherwise vegetarian meal. It wasn't even the fact that a small, unsolicited act of poultricide had been commited just to spice up my lunch. No, the truly disturbing fact was the easily overlooked significance of the number of kidneys found in my meal. There were seven kidneys.

Seven.

You see, its not just that 4 chickens died to bring you this journal entry, its that even though 4 died, I only had 3.5 chicken's worth of kidneys. Think about that. I was tackling the idea that I had been served a prime number of kidneys. Where was the orphaned organ? I imagined all the stories I'd ever heard of traveling to Mexico and getting drugged at a club and waking up in an odd hotel room with stitches on my abdomen, only to die a slow death over the next 4 days from a build-up of toxins in my body that my harvested kidneys could no longer filter – except these were chickens, not humans, and they had never been to Mexico, nor ever experimented with psychotropic hallucinogens, and they sure as hell didn't know how to drink too much tequila and dance the meringue at 3am with overweight Mexican prostitutes on their spring break in Tijuana, trying to forget about the girl who dumped them after their senior prom. But I digress... Not to mention, where the hell do you get 7 kidneys from at one time? Is there an organ-lady-stall at the marche? Was I eating a fetisheur's last commission?

The hell if I know – you really think I was thinking that hard about it then and there? I popped those bad boys like popcorn shrimp.

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